tartare

Great Rant On Bad Restaurant Trends

Timothy Taylor unloads on restaurant and food trends in an extremely well-written and fun rant. For me, the money quote:

"Ban foam except that found on beer and cappuccino. It is clear that block of sponge that tastes like corn chowder is innovative. It is not clear in which way it is better than the corn chowder from which it is derived. And what did corn chowder ever do that required renovation anyway?"

This piece made me think back to this Frank Bruni piece from last year, "You May Kiss The Chef's Napkin Ring". Bruni talks about the attitude that diners get at a number of the "must go" restaurants in New York. It makes a nice companion piece to the Taylor rant.

NYT On Blue Ribbon

Good Bruni backgrounder piece on the various Blue Ribbon properties in NYC. I thought this was especially good:

Here’s another interesting fact about the Blue Ribbon brood: the Bromberg brothers — Eric, 45, and Bruce, 41 — have apparently never hired a cook who immediately and directly took charge of a Blue Ribbon kitchen. They insist that anyone hopping aboard the Blue Ribbon train start out doing dish-washing or prep work. Even a person slated for big cooking responsibilities has to work his or her way up, at least for a short term.

The Brombergs said that it promotes a culture of respect among workers while ensuring that anyone running one of the restaurant’s kitchens has become fully aware of the Blue Ribbon way of doing and making things.

I think this is a great idea. It reminds of when I worked on a television cooking show. One of the hosts had been executive chef at a Mobil Five-Star restaurant, and now was heading his own very successful restaurant group, including a Mobil Four-Star. Not only is he very accomplished; he is insanely busy. Me, I'm just some guy in a chef's jacket who had quit a perfectly good job six months prior, so that I may prep ingredients and switchouts, dress the set, and clean up afterward, all for no money (cunning plan on my part).

Anyway, after the show, the chef, now in street clothes, came back to the kitchen to thank me for helping. I asked him about his education and how he'd gotten to this point in his career. Suddenly, he is at the dish tank next to me, his sleeves rolled up. He is washing dishes with me, telling me of his early experiences in school and working as a young man in France. He also had both career and educational advice for me. It was amazing. What respect for the work this guy shows -- he still understands and knows what it is like to do the work and to be learning. Simple acts like this demonstrate much about someone's character and leadership qualities. It's also the kind of moment that makes doing that work for no remuneration worth it.

I just remember thinking, "That's the kind of chef I want to work for. That's the kind of chef I want to be."

Clearing Out The Tumbleweeds

It's been a while since I have had the time to post. With the last insane-end-of-year-rush catering gig now in the past, I have some time again. Tons to write about, but in the mean time, here are some slides:

Nothing more homey than homemade cherry pie (not a pastry cook by trade, though the tart Michigan cherries we picked up this summer covered a multitude of sins, such as my crooked lattice work).

Classics: Potatoes Anna. I had to make these recently for a work engagement and I wanted to have them for Thanksgiving with C and my dad. How can you go wrong with potatoes and lots of butter, salt , pepper, and heat? I am stilling looking for the right pan for this, but on the whole, I was happy with the color on these.

More classic cuisine: Spinach Timbales. Love these things and made them for Christmas Eve dinner at my mother-in-law's house.

Mmm...and of course, home-baked bread, cooling outside. We could not put bread outside to cool when we lived in downtown Boston.

Also from Thanksgiving, my asparagus/avocado mousse with fried leeks and reduced balsamic vinegar. This is a small plate/tapas/bar food item; you can eat it like chips and dip.